Two Bikes or One?

The great majority of my cycling is done on roads. Only rarely will I ride on unpaved surfaces, and when I do, it is usually only for short distances. I suspect that this is the case for most people. If you live in a city or a town, how often do you ride on anything but asphalt?

While road biking is best done using a lightweight bike with slender tires, trail riding is a sport unto itself and requires a specialized, heavy-duty bike. Trail riders usually drive to the trailhead with their mountain bikes on the roofs of their cars. Bona fide mountain bikes are a rare sight on paved roads.

For a new rider who plans to commute to work on paved roads but ride on dirt trails on the weekend, hybrid bikes make a tempting option. Why not save money and buy a bike designed for both on- and off-road cycling? Unfortunately, I have found that, because they are such a poor second choice to road bikes for riding on roads, and to mountain bikes when riding on trails, hybrids are best avoided.

I once took my hybrid on a trail-riding excursion with some friends who were on mountain bikes. The hybrid's shortcomings were quickly demonstrated: The mountain bikes, with their thick, knobby tires, were much more easily manoeuvred up steep surfaces than was my bike. My chain was repeatedly knocked off its sprockets due to all the buffeting the bike sustained, a problem my friends didn't have (it was an irritating and greasy job to have to repeatedly reset my chain). And even though my bike has front-end shocks, a blessing on the rough trails, the jarring terrain convinced me that a mountain bike's more robust construction is necessary for trail riding. Not many such rides would be needed for my bike to end up in the shop with bent or otherwise damaged parts.

Nor is a hybrid ideal for riding on roads. A hybrid has tires that are wider than those of a road bike and this makes the tires needlessly large for road riding. Increasing tire size means increasing friction between tire and road, with the result that more energy needs to be expended to move. You can easily hear the difference in sound between a hybrid and a road bike as they travel past: the hybrid is considerably louder. Hybrid riders work noticeably harder than road bike riders.

The presence of streetcar tracks might convince some of the need for a hybrid. These tracks are a serious danger to cyclists because of the possibility that one's tires might slot into a track. This unfortunate occurence has thrown many a cyclist onto the road, often in heavy traffic. That said, most hybrid tires are not thick enough to prevent a bike from going into a track, so one would as well have the thinner road tires.

In Toronto, storm drains used to be an issue for cyclists because the gratings were parallel with the cyclist's path. It was possible for one's tires to slot into a grate, bringing a bike to an abrupt stop. This is no longer a problem, though, as all of these drains have been replaced and now have perpendicularly angled grates.

Because of the considerable negatives and only negligible positives of hybrids, I think cyclists who want to ride on both trails and roads would be wise to spend the extra money and own two bikes.

A Bike Should Be a Well-Oiled Machine

I recently had to take my bike to the shop because one of the brakes had seized. My brakes are of the side-pull variety, and rust and dirt had gotten into the anchor bolt, which attaches the brake mechanism to one of the side stays. The mechanic who worked on my bike suggested that I should regularly spray WD-40 on this bolt. I've since gotten in the habit of doing this, and my brakes have worked a treat ever since. I just have to be careful to not get any WD-40 on the brake pads or on the tire rim, which are both near to the anchor bolt.

I make it a habit to keep the works of my bike well lubricated. Before every ride, I'll examine the chain and sprockets; if the chain has any rust showing or appears dry, I'll take the time to apply oil. Oil on the chains will also help with any rust that has developed on the sprockets, but to really keep the sprockets rust free, I spray them with WD-40. This is a great product for bikes; it is quick and effective. I periodically apply WD-40 to the gear mechanisms, as well.

One issue with applying a lot of chain oil and WD-40 is that they soon build up on nearby sections of the frame, especially on the chain stays, the parts of the frame which run parallel to the chain. As a result, I need to wash these areas regularly, using hot soapy water, a stiff brush, and rags. If I don't regularly clean these areas, they soon become coated in a thick layer of oily dirt.

All of the above-mentioned parts of the bike are exposed to the elements, but the wheel hubs have ball bearings that are enclosed. I have yet to open the hubs of my wheels to clean and grease the ball bearings myself, but I do make a point to take my bike to the shop a couple of times a year to have this done.

Because I keep all these parts well lubricated, they will last longer and run easier. As well, I don't have to worry that a moving part, like one of the brakes, say, will seize at an inpportune moment.

More about Winter Cycling

Numbers

There has recently been some winter-cycling-related chatter among some of my Facebook friends. Some of them say that they are still cycling and have posted pictures of themselves out on their bikes. One person even reported going out for a short trip on a recent morning when the temperature was down to -16 degrees!

I recently biked from my home in Toronto's east end to Yonge and Bloor, a trip of about a dozen kilometres. A check of Environment Canada's weather archive informs me that it was -7 degrees and not at all windy when I made my trip. There had been a fair amount of snow in the days before I made this trip, but enough time had passed for the snow to be cleared from the roads. It was a typical winter day for Toronto--certainly not onerous conditions for those inclined to cycle in the winter.

However, during my ride, which occured around 10 a.m., I counted only eight other cyclists on the road; in fact, I would have seen only six except that I had to make a small detour that added a bit of distance to my ride and two more cyclists to my tally. Granted, I was riding after rush hour and I surely would have seen more cyclists about if I had been riding an hour or two earlier. But even if I was out after rush hour, eight cyclists over a twelve-kilometre trip is a small number. I can't imagine how many cars I must have seen during that same trip. Thousands? The issue is not so much the numbers of bikes as it is the ratio of cars to bikes.

Salt

One aspect of winter cycling that alarms me is the amount of salt on the roads. On the one hand I'm glad that salt is preventing ice and snow build-up, but on the other hand I'm astounded at the colossal amount of salt that is used. In the winter my chain and gears are perpetually coated in salty grime; I have to apply oil and WD-40 before almost every trip. Come spring, I'll carefully wash my bike, but doubtless I'll need to replace the drive train before too long, largely due to the salt that gets thrown onto it each ride.

It is not just the salt on my bike that concerns me; it is the salt that gets into my body. Road salt, not table salt, mind you. When the roads are dry, traffic is constantly kicking up fine particles of salt, which everyone on the road inhales, cyclists all the more because we are usually breathing more heavily than people in cars. Recently a fire truck raced past me and left in its wake a billowing cloud of white salt. I find that there is so much salt on the roads that I can actually taste the salt when I ride. Come to think of it, if I can taste the salt I must be ingesting small amounts of it, too.

Bike Theft

I have lost only one bike because of theft. When I was a kid, my yellow bike with coaster brakes was stolen. I recovered the bike a day or two later, though, after my brother spotted a boy riding it in a nearby schoolyard. As an adult I have not had even one bike taken from me. Given how common bike theft is, I feel I have been lucky.



Here are ways you can lessen the likelihood of your bike being stolen:



Lock your bike in an area that has lots of pedestrian traffic. Thieves prefer to work away from public view; a bike left alone in an isolated area is far more likely to be taken than a bike left in a busy area. Keep in mind, though, that locking your bike in a busy area is no guarantee against theft. Many cyclists can tell of times they have had bikes stolen from racks on busy streets. The thieves in these instances must have been cutting through locks while pedestrians walked right past! These pedestrians were either oblivious to what was going on or were consciously ignoring the thief.



Use two locks on your bike. Having two locks makes it a hassle for thieves to take your bike, especially when they see other bikes nearby that have only a single lock. I don't use two locks every time I lock my bike - I'll use one lock if I am only going to be dashing into a store for a few moments - but if I am going to be away from my bike for more than a few minutes, I'll use two locks.



Lock your frame and both wheels! I can't count how many times I have seen a front wheel locked to a bike rack, the remainder of the bike gone. Remember, stolen bikes are often "chopped up" by thieves. A thief will happily and quickly remove the rest of the bike if only the front wheel is locked; the stolen bike (minus the front wheel) will then be disassembled, the constituent parts used to create new bikes.



Spend the money to get a good-quality lock. While any lock will stymie a thief looking for a quick getaway on an unlocked bike, only a better-quality lock will provide any deterrence against an experienced thief. I use a U-type lock and a chain lock. I slide the U-lock through my bike so that it secures the frame and rear tire; I use the chain lock for the front tire and (again) the frame. While even the best locks can be defeated, the more difficult you make it for thieves, the better off you will be.



Consider leaving an expensive bike at home if you're going to have to leave it out of sight for even a short period of time. The more expensive or new looking your bike is, the more likely it will be stolen. Some cyclists paint the frames of their bikes in an effort to hide the make of the bike, but I'm not sure how well this idea works. Whenever I see a bike with a repainted frame, I immediately suspect that the bike is expensive. And likely, most thieves have the same thought. In any case, they will usually be able to identify what make a bike is even if its logos are painted over. My bike is well-used and definitely looks that way. It has chipped paint and patches of rust; the seat is covered in duct tape. I feel like my bike is much less likely to be stolen than the expensive-looking bike locked next to it.



Take panniers, lights, and any other easily removed accessories with you once you have locked your bike. I would also consider taking your seat if it is attached with a quick release mechanism. And certainly take your helmet with you.



Good luck. Taking steps to protect your bike makes cycling a little less convenient. Unfortunately, theft of bikes is rampant. We have to take these precautions.

Keeping Safe in Winter

People are often reluctant to cycle in the winter. The cold and snow can cause some to relegate their bikes to the garage until spring. My previous post had some tips on how to keep warm while cycling in the winter; in this post, I will deal with some safety considerations.


The greatest winter-related danger to cyclists is ice. Look out, especially, for days in which the temperature dips from above to below freezing. On such days, the roads can be blanketed in ice, and often this ice is of the hard-to-see variety known as "dark ice." Nothing will bring you crashing to the ground faster than trying to turn or stop on ice. My recommendation is to not cycle at all in these conditions. If you must travel when the roads are icy, choose another type of transportation. It is far too dangerous and difficult to cycle on icy roads.


You probably won't be off your bike for long, though. Traffic and road salt will quickly remove the bulk of any newly created ice. Usually you can cycle again after a day or so has gone by following a cold snap. But always be vigilant. Dark ice can exist at any time, even long after it was created. You have to be on the lookout for ice every day in the winter.


Snow, while a lesser danger than ice, is still a concern. Obviously, when the snow gets to a certain depth, cycling can be near to impossible. I remember once making the mistake of trying to cycle a nature trail in the spring. The weather had been mild for weeks and the roads were completely clear of snow and ice. I assumed that the nature trail, which wended through valleys, would likewise be clear. When I got to the trail, however, it turned out to be still under quite a lot of snow and slush. What was to have been a regular ride for me turned into an exercise in endurance as I slogged my way along. As tiring as the ride was, though, I actually enjoyed the challenge of cycling through the snow and slush; staying upright and moving forward took a lot of concentration and was mentally engaging. However, riding through deep snow on a trail is one thing and riding through deep snow on roads is quite another; you just won't be quick or agile enough to safely share the roads with cars in those conditions. Again, some days you really should leave your bike in the garage.



It is reasonable, however, to cycle on hard-packed snow. During a snowy winter (which we haven't had for a while in Toronto...) you may sometimes find yourself having to negotiate stretches of hard-packed snow while cycling on side streets or when going through parks. While cycling on this kind of snow is certainly not as dangerous as cycling on ice, it is still easy enough to have a wipeout. Before you cycle on streets with hard-packed snow for the first time, try going to a park to practise. This is an important skill to develop, and with practice you will quickly develop your "snow legs." As long as you keep your bike moving at a steady pace and don't try to turn too quickly, you should be able to stay upright. The trick is to not go too fast.



A piece of equipment advice: opt for wide, knobbly tires in the winter. These are a big advantage when you are on snow or ice. Thin, racing-type tires are not a good idea in the winter.

Keeping Warm in Winter

When fall turns to winter, many cyclists, not wanting to cycle in the cold, put their bikes in the garage until spring. But cycling need not be just a seasonal activity. Here are a few tips on how to keep warm.



First off, remember that you will generate a fair amount of heat by exercising. When I was a kid, I had a morning paper route that I had to start before sunrise. I remember the chill I felt on winter mornings as I left the warmth of my house to walk in the cold, often the kind of cold that made the snow crunch and my nostrils stick together. But despite the cold, by the time I had finished my route, I often found myself undoing my coat to cool down. The same effect will occur when you cycle in the winter. Provided you are properly dressed and are exerting yourself, you will soon be warm enough.



On really cold days I make sure that under everything, I am wearing a T-shirt and long johns. You might not think that a mere T-shirt would make much of a difference, but having one more layer between you and the frigid air really helps to keep you warm. Above the T-shirt, wear a thicker shirt (made of flannel, say), a warm sweater and a winter coat. This should see you through even the coldest trip.



Wear thick socks. Winter-weight wool socks are a good option. With the wool socks, lightweight winter boots or even just hiking shoes should be enough to keep your feet warm. I definitely wouldn't recommend wearing large, heavy-duty winter boots, though. These boots make it very awkward to pedal.



Warm gloves are a must. Make sure the gloves you buy are wind-resistant and are rated for at least -10 degrees Celsius. You need not purchase expensive bike gloves, however. For years I wore a pair of thin gloves inside a larger pair of regular winter gloves. Even on a -15 degree day, my hands remained toasty warm. (Unfortunately, I lost those gloves on the subway...) And make sure your gloves aren't too snug; the air around your hands acts as insulation and will warm up.



(If your are biking year-round, you will probably also want a second, lighter-weight pair of gloves; I find that my hands get uncomfortably hot if I am wearing my heavy-duty gloves on days that aren't at least 5 degrees or colder.)



I wear a scarf, but in addition, I wear a thin Lycra tube around my neck. You will be able to find these tubes in most bike shops. They are great at keeping your neck warm and at keeping the wind from going down your coat. On colder days you can pull the tube up over your chin to keep the lower part of your head warm. And during cool fall days, it can be worn over your head to keep the wind from your ears.



Wear a toque! I find that a bike helmet provides a measure of warmth, and the combination of helmet and toque is usually enough to keep your head quite warm. Make sure the toque covers your ears.



All of this still leaves your face uncovered, but I find that having my face get a bit cold generally isn't a problem if the rest of my body is warm. Some cyclists wear a balaclava, though.

The Great Outdoors

Many of us spend the bulk of our time enclosed by buildings and cars. A great benefit of cycling is that it gets us outside.



When I am cycling I enjoy seeing the sky and the far distances. Even within the confines of my city, I can see down the length of a busy street or up to whatever of the sky can be seen between the building tops. Being outside imparts a feeling of freedom and escape, of expanded horizons. In a car or building I feel disconnected from my surroundings, seeing and hearing the world through panes of glass.



It is refreshing to be away from temperature-controlled air. Spending some time cycling outside, where the temperature isn't always 21 degrees, is a good way to add diversity of experience to your day. Also, it is good to breathe the relatively cleaner outside air rather than the stale, canned air we spend so much time in. Remember that when you are indoors, you are usually exposed to higher levels of pollutants than when you are outside, even in cities.



Another benefit of cycling can be exposure to the sun. Consider yourself lucky if you are able to go riding on a sunny day. Apart from triggering the production of vitamin D, with all its reputed health benefits, a little sun can do wonders for your mood. (Of course there is such a thing as too much sun. Always cover up or use sunscreen if you feel your skin is burning.)



I love being outside when the weather is pleasant, but I also enjoy cycling in the winter. If I'm dressed appropriately, except for on the frostiest of days, the cold will be bearable. I always feel quite warm after I have been cycling for a few minutes and have built up some body heat. And if I am feeling the chill, I know that my ride will soon end and I'll be able to get inside.



So, get outside on your bike; your mind and body will thank you.