I have lost only one bike because of theft. When I was a kid, my yellow bike with coaster brakes was stolen. I recovered the bike a day or two later, though, after my brother spotted a boy riding it in a nearby schoolyard. As an adult I have not had even one bike taken from me. Given how common bike theft is, I feel I have been lucky.
Here are ways you can lessen the likelihood of your bike being stolen:
Lock your bike in an area that has lots of pedestrian traffic. Thieves prefer to work away from public view; a bike left alone in an isolated area is far more likely to be taken than a bike left in a busy area. Keep in mind, though, that locking your bike in a busy area is no guarantee against theft. Many cyclists can tell of times they have had bikes stolen from racks on busy streets. The thieves in these instances must have been cutting through locks while pedestrians walked right past! These pedestrians were either oblivious to what was going on or were consciously ignoring the thief.
Use two locks on your bike. Having two locks makes it a hassle for thieves to take your bike, especially when they see other bikes nearby that have only a single lock. I don't use two locks every time I lock my bike - I'll use one lock if I am only going to be dashing into a store for a few moments - but if I am going to be away from my bike for more than a few minutes, I'll use two locks.
Lock your frame and both wheels! I can't count how many times I have seen a front wheel locked to a bike rack, the remainder of the bike gone. Remember, stolen bikes are often "chopped up" by thieves. A thief will happily and quickly remove the rest of the bike if only the front wheel is locked; the stolen bike (minus the front wheel) will then be disassembled, the constituent parts used to create new bikes.
Spend the money to get a good-quality lock. While any lock will stymie a thief looking for a quick getaway on an unlocked bike, only a better-quality lock will provide any deterrence against an experienced thief. I use a U-type lock and a chain lock. I slide the U-lock through my bike so that it secures the frame and rear tire; I use the chain lock for the front tire and (again) the frame. While even the best locks can be defeated, the more difficult you make it for thieves, the better off you will be.
Consider leaving an expensive bike at home if you're going to have to leave it out of sight for even a short period of time. The more expensive or new looking your bike is, the more likely it will be stolen. Some cyclists paint the frames of their bikes in an effort to hide the make of the bike, but I'm not sure how well this idea works. Whenever I see a bike with a repainted frame, I immediately suspect that the bike is expensive. And likely, most thieves have the same thought. In any case, they will usually be able to identify what make a bike is even if its logos are painted over. My bike is well-used and definitely looks that way. It has chipped paint and patches of rust; the seat is covered in duct tape. I feel like my bike is much less likely to be stolen than the expensive-looking bike locked next to it.
Take panniers, lights, and any other easily removed accessories with you once you have locked your bike. I would also consider taking your seat if it is attached with a quick release mechanism. And certainly take your helmet with you.
Good luck. Taking steps to protect your bike makes cycling a little less convenient. Unfortunately, theft of bikes is rampant. We have to take these precautions.
Friday, January 14, 2011
Tuesday, January 4, 2011
Keeping Safe in Winter
People are often reluctant to cycle in the winter. The cold and snow can cause some to relegate their bikes to the garage until spring. My previous post had some tips on how to keep warm while cycling in the winter; in this post, I will deal with some safety considerations.
The greatest winter-related danger to cyclists is ice. Look out, especially, for days in which the temperature dips from above to below freezing. On such days, the roads can be blanketed in ice, and often this ice is of the hard-to-see variety known as "dark ice." Nothing will bring you crashing to the ground faster than trying to turn or stop on ice. My recommendation is to not cycle at all in these conditions. If you must travel when the roads are icy, choose another type of transportation. It is far too dangerous and difficult to cycle on icy roads.
You probably won't be off your bike for long, though. Traffic and road salt will quickly remove the bulk of any newly created ice. Usually you can cycle again after a day or so has gone by following a cold snap. But always be vigilant. Dark ice can exist at any time, even long after it was created. You have to be on the lookout for ice every day in the winter.
Snow, while a lesser danger than ice, is still a concern. Obviously, when the snow gets to a certain depth, cycling can be near to impossible. I remember once making the mistake of trying to cycle a nature trail in the spring. The weather had been mild for weeks and the roads were completely clear of snow and ice. I assumed that the nature trail, which wended through valleys, would likewise be clear. When I got to the trail, however, it turned out to be still under quite a lot of snow and slush. What was to have been a regular ride for me turned into an exercise in endurance as I slogged my way along. As tiring as the ride was, though, I actually enjoyed the challenge of cycling through the snow and slush; staying upright and moving forward took a lot of concentration and was mentally engaging. However, riding through deep snow on a trail is one thing and riding through deep snow on roads is quite another; you just won't be quick or agile enough to safely share the roads with cars in those conditions. Again, some days you really should leave your bike in the garage.
It is reasonable, however, to cycle on hard-packed snow. During a snowy winter (which we haven't had for a while in Toronto...) you may sometimes find yourself having to negotiate stretches of hard-packed snow while cycling on side streets or when going through parks. While cycling on this kind of snow is certainly not as dangerous as cycling on ice, it is still easy enough to have a wipeout. Before you cycle on streets with hard-packed snow for the first time, try going to a park to practise. This is an important skill to develop, and with practice you will quickly develop your "snow legs." As long as you keep your bike moving at a steady pace and don't try to turn too quickly, you should be able to stay upright. The trick is to not go too fast.
A piece of equipment advice: opt for wide, knobbly tires in the winter. These are a big advantage when you are on snow or ice. Thin, racing-type tires are not a good idea in the winter.
The greatest winter-related danger to cyclists is ice. Look out, especially, for days in which the temperature dips from above to below freezing. On such days, the roads can be blanketed in ice, and often this ice is of the hard-to-see variety known as "dark ice." Nothing will bring you crashing to the ground faster than trying to turn or stop on ice. My recommendation is to not cycle at all in these conditions. If you must travel when the roads are icy, choose another type of transportation. It is far too dangerous and difficult to cycle on icy roads.
You probably won't be off your bike for long, though. Traffic and road salt will quickly remove the bulk of any newly created ice. Usually you can cycle again after a day or so has gone by following a cold snap. But always be vigilant. Dark ice can exist at any time, even long after it was created. You have to be on the lookout for ice every day in the winter.
Snow, while a lesser danger than ice, is still a concern. Obviously, when the snow gets to a certain depth, cycling can be near to impossible. I remember once making the mistake of trying to cycle a nature trail in the spring. The weather had been mild for weeks and the roads were completely clear of snow and ice. I assumed that the nature trail, which wended through valleys, would likewise be clear. When I got to the trail, however, it turned out to be still under quite a lot of snow and slush. What was to have been a regular ride for me turned into an exercise in endurance as I slogged my way along. As tiring as the ride was, though, I actually enjoyed the challenge of cycling through the snow and slush; staying upright and moving forward took a lot of concentration and was mentally engaging. However, riding through deep snow on a trail is one thing and riding through deep snow on roads is quite another; you just won't be quick or agile enough to safely share the roads with cars in those conditions. Again, some days you really should leave your bike in the garage.
It is reasonable, however, to cycle on hard-packed snow. During a snowy winter (which we haven't had for a while in Toronto...) you may sometimes find yourself having to negotiate stretches of hard-packed snow while cycling on side streets or when going through parks. While cycling on this kind of snow is certainly not as dangerous as cycling on ice, it is still easy enough to have a wipeout. Before you cycle on streets with hard-packed snow for the first time, try going to a park to practise. This is an important skill to develop, and with practice you will quickly develop your "snow legs." As long as you keep your bike moving at a steady pace and don't try to turn too quickly, you should be able to stay upright. The trick is to not go too fast.
A piece of equipment advice: opt for wide, knobbly tires in the winter. These are a big advantage when you are on snow or ice. Thin, racing-type tires are not a good idea in the winter.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)