Confidence While Riding

Many cyclists are reluctant to ride in the city because they are intimidated by the heavy traffic. And who can blame them? It is a logical fear. I remember that when I resumed riding, several years ago, I felt decidedly unsafe when I first ventured on to the busy streets. Over time I lost most of that fear, but it would be unwise for me to ever lose it altogether. I have been doored twice now and I am well aware that the possibility of accident and injury is always present. The fact is, riding in the narrow curb lanes while cars go by only an arm's length away is a distictly unsafe activity. I am putting my life in the hands of the drivers around me. And as much as I think that cyclists have the right to share the roads with cars, I sometimes feel like a foreign element out there, engaged in foolishly risky behaviour.

Despite my initial unease, I eventually became quite confident cycling in the city. It is important for cyclists to feel confident. Confidence will help make your actions predictable to drivers. (Signalling your intentions is, of course, another way of being predictable to drivers.) A lack of confidence can cause you to hesitate dangerously before making, say, a turn, and this hesitation will cause drivers to be uncertain of your intentions; they may think you are not proceeding with your turn and may then drive into your path.

Too much confidence, however, can cause you to make questionable decisions. The overconfident cyclist will often dart about, making sudden, risky moves. It is important to act in an expected fashion. Don't attempt, for example, to pass in a risky fashion or to quickly squeeze through tight spaces. I find that some cyclists are reluctant to let seemingly anything impede their progress, and because of this, they will jump queue in traffic and make erractic moves. Overconfidence can breed contempt for situations that are actually quite dangerous and can create danger where none existed.

An example of a situation that requires a lot of confidence is when you are making a left turn from the protected turn lane at a busy intersection. It took me some time to work up the courage to try this; I've noticed that many cyclists who want to make left turns will often just bike to the far side of the cross street and then wait at the corner for the lights to change, thus temporarily acting like a pedestrian. Cyclists are allowed to use the left-hand turn lanes, and it is not as dangerous as it looks. The most important warning I can give is that I would not try one of these at night unless your bike is equipped with very bright lights, front and rear, and you are wearing many effective reflective strips. But even in the day, it can feel lonely waiting in the middle of an intersection with all those cars and trucks driving past on both sides. But I don't think that it is particularly dangerous. I have been making lefts like this for years and have yet to have any problems. When you think about it, the only driver that you are really worried about is the one who is right behind you, and it is very unlikely that that driver will miss seeing you. I suggest that you stand tall and stick your left arm straight out (confidently!) to signal; commence signalling as soon as you get in the left-hand turn lane, so that the driver behind you has time to take in the fact that you are intending to turn; and, as when driving, don't forget about the pedestrians. It is all too easy to concentrate only on the oncoming cars while you wait for a break in traffic.

Protected Bike Lanes

I recently drove to Hudson, Quebec, a town in which cycling is very popular. Every time I go there, which is a few times a year, I note the many cyclists riding expensive-looking bikes along the roads of their affluent town. Because most of the roads in and around Hudson are narrow, drivers must be careful when passing these cyclists, especially when cars are approaching in oncoming lanes. Unfortunately, some drivers can be impatient when manoeuvring past cyclists; rather than wait for a clear chance to pass with room to spare, these drivers will sometimes pass in dangerous ways, narrowly missing the cyclists.

One way to protect cyclists from cars is to create bike lanes that are separated from car lanes with posts or fences. Protected bike lanes have been much proposed, lately, but not much built; it is in Hudson that I saw my first example of such a lane. (The roads in Hudson have only two undivided lanes, and most lack space for protected bike lanes. So even though cyclists in large numbers use these roads, I have only ever seen this one protected lane, which has been in place for a few years.)

I have never had the opportunity to cycle on a physically protected bike lane before, but I imagine I would greatly value the protection afforded by one. Cars are a constant threat to cyclists, and the protected lane in Hudson, with steel posts set about every ten metres, would greatly reduce the danger to cyclists from cars.

While protected bike lanes are undoubtedly a positive development, I do have some concerns with them. I can report that driving on this road in Hudson makes for a rather tense experience. The car portion of the road has been made so narrow with the addition of the bike lane that driving it is surely less safe now than it was before the bike lane was created. Being on it reminded me of driving in the narrow, temporary lanes, set off by pylons, that skirt construction zones on highways. But here, rather than having to avoid soft rubber or plastic pylons, drivers are forced to drive close to steel posts set into the road. And this bike lane goes on for a few kilometres. That is quite a distance to be driving in such a narrow lane. A casual survey of the posts showed that many cars had collided with them; most of the posts, perhaps four fifths, are bent significantly backward.

A driver would likely be injured from a collision with one of these posts. But even more dangerous is the increased likelihood of a head-on collision occuring with another car because someone was driving too close to the oncoming lane in an effort to keep clear of the posts. It is mentally tiring to keep a car within the bounds of such a narrow lane, and the chance of driver error is, therefore, increased.

Any time a protected bike lane is created, planners should make sure that the road isn't made more dangerous for drivers when the posts are put in place.

Another concern with posts being added to roads comes up in places that have snow in the winter. As I have written in another blog, the number of cyclists on Toronto roads starts to rapidly drop in November, and by winter, very few are still cycling. Having permanent bike lanes will seem pointless come winter if no one is using them. I wonder of bike-lane posts could be made temporary. I am sure a civil engineer could devise a method to have these posts come out of the road in the winter and go back in in the spring. If pemanent posts are used, I can imagine that many protected bike lanes will effectively become protected snow piles in the winter.

Hand Signals

About a year ago I was cycling in Toronto, westward along Lawrence, approaching Bayview. My route took me south on Bayview, and so I got behind a group of cars that were turning into an off-ramp leading to Bayview. Eventually, all but one of the cars ahead of me had turned, but this last car had come to a stop. After a few awkward moments, as I waited for the car to turn, the driver rolled her window down and told me that she had stopped because she didn't know what I was intending to do. Was I going to keep straight or turn right onto the ramp? If I had continued straight, her right turn would have cut me off. In fact, I was intending to go right, but how could she know? I hadn't signalled. She was right to wait, and she was also right to be a bit annoyed at me for not signalling my intention.

When I came to that right turn, it didn't even occur to me to make any kind of signal. Why would I? Cyclists never use hand signals, right? I bike all the time, and I as near to never as makes no difference see cyclists using signals. I'm tempted to say that I've never seen a cyclist signal, but I suppose I may once have seen this and forgotten about it. It is certainly very rare. Signalling just isn't in the culture of cycling. And this is not good.

For one thing, if cyclists did use hand signals, it would improve relations between drivers and cyclists. Drivers rightfully regard some (not all!) of the cyclists they see as rule-flouting road warriors. And they righfully ask themselves why cyclists aren't required to signal. If nothing else, it would be courteous to drivers if cyclists signalled. It would demonstrate to drivers that they and cyclists are all in the same boat. Driving can be aggravating enough as it is. Drivers don't need to see cyclists acting as if traffic rules don't apply to them.

Consider a driver waiting to make a right turn and seeing a cyclist approaching from behind. If signals were commonly used by cyclists, that driver could be reasonably confident that the lack of a signal from the cyclist indicated that the cyclist intended to keep straight. Currently, the driver has no idea what the cyclist's intentions are. And that is more dangerous to the cyclist than to the driver.

Do keep in mind that it is safest to signal when you are either stopped or are moving at a moderate pace or faster. Taking a hand from you handlebars to signal while you are inching along can be a precarious activity, and it would be easy to fall. Only signal while travelling slowly if you are a confident cyclist who isn't likely to keel over while doing it.

Two Bikes or One?

The great majority of my cycling is done on roads. Only rarely will I ride on unpaved surfaces, and when I do, it is usually only for short distances. I suspect that this is the case for most people. If you live in a city or a town, how often do you ride on anything but asphalt?

While road biking is best done using a lightweight bike with slender tires, trail riding is a sport unto itself and requires a specialized, heavy-duty bike. Trail riders usually drive to the trailhead with their mountain bikes on the roofs of their cars. Bona fide mountain bikes are a rare sight on paved roads.

For a new rider who plans to commute to work on paved roads but ride on dirt trails on the weekend, hybrid bikes make a tempting option. Why not save money and buy a bike designed for both on- and off-road cycling? Unfortunately, I have found that, because they are such a poor second choice to road bikes for riding on roads, and to mountain bikes when riding on trails, hybrids are best avoided.

I once took my hybrid on a trail-riding excursion with some friends who were on mountain bikes. The hybrid's shortcomings were quickly demonstrated: The mountain bikes, with their thick, knobby tires, were much more easily manoeuvred up steep surfaces than was my bike. My chain was repeatedly knocked off its sprockets due to all the buffeting the bike sustained, a problem my friends didn't have (it was an irritating and greasy job to have to repeatedly reset my chain). And even though my bike has front-end shocks, a blessing on the rough trails, the jarring terrain convinced me that a mountain bike's more robust construction is necessary for trail riding. Not many such rides would be needed for my bike to end up in the shop with bent or otherwise damaged parts.

Nor is a hybrid ideal for riding on roads. A hybrid has tires that are wider than those of a road bike and this makes the tires needlessly large for road riding. Increasing tire size means increasing friction between tire and road, with the result that more energy needs to be expended to move. You can easily hear the difference in sound between a hybrid and a road bike as they travel past: the hybrid is considerably louder. Hybrid riders work noticeably harder than road bike riders.

The presence of streetcar tracks might convince some of the need for a hybrid. These tracks are a serious danger to cyclists because of the possibility that one's tires might slot into a track. This unfortunate occurence has thrown many a cyclist onto the road, often in heavy traffic. That said, most hybrid tires are not thick enough to prevent a bike from going into a track, so one would as well have the thinner road tires.

In Toronto, storm drains used to be an issue for cyclists because the gratings were parallel with the cyclist's path. It was possible for one's tires to slot into a grate, bringing a bike to an abrupt stop. This is no longer a problem, though, as all of these drains have been replaced and now have perpendicularly angled grates.

Because of the considerable negatives and only negligible positives of hybrids, I think cyclists who want to ride on both trails and roads would be wise to spend the extra money and own two bikes.

A Bike Should Be a Well-Oiled Machine

I recently had to take my bike to the shop because one of the brakes had seized. My brakes are of the side-pull variety, and rust and dirt had gotten into the anchor bolt, which attaches the brake mechanism to one of the side stays. The mechanic who worked on my bike suggested that I should regularly spray WD-40 on this bolt. I've since gotten in the habit of doing this, and my brakes have worked a treat ever since. I just have to be careful to not get any WD-40 on the brake pads or on the tire rim, which are both near to the anchor bolt.

I make it a habit to keep the works of my bike well lubricated. Before every ride, I'll examine the chain and sprockets; if the chain has any rust showing or appears dry, I'll take the time to apply oil. Oil on the chains will also help with any rust that has developed on the sprockets, but to really keep the sprockets rust free, I spray them with WD-40. This is a great product for bikes; it is quick and effective. I periodically apply WD-40 to the gear mechanisms, as well.

One issue with applying a lot of chain oil and WD-40 is that they soon build up on nearby sections of the frame, especially on the chain stays, the parts of the frame which run parallel to the chain. As a result, I need to wash these areas regularly, using hot soapy water, a stiff brush, and rags. If I don't regularly clean these areas, they soon become coated in a thick layer of oily dirt.

All of the above-mentioned parts of the bike are exposed to the elements, but the wheel hubs have ball bearings that are enclosed. I have yet to open the hubs of my wheels to clean and grease the ball bearings myself, but I do make a point to take my bike to the shop a couple of times a year to have this done.

Because I keep all these parts well lubricated, they will last longer and run easier. As well, I don't have to worry that a moving part, like one of the brakes, say, will seize at an inpportune moment.

More about Winter Cycling

Numbers

There has recently been some winter-cycling-related chatter among some of my Facebook friends. Some of them say that they are still cycling and have posted pictures of themselves out on their bikes. One person even reported going out for a short trip on a recent morning when the temperature was down to -16 degrees!

I recently biked from my home in Toronto's east end to Yonge and Bloor, a trip of about a dozen kilometres. A check of Environment Canada's weather archive informs me that it was -7 degrees and not at all windy when I made my trip. There had been a fair amount of snow in the days before I made this trip, but enough time had passed for the snow to be cleared from the roads. It was a typical winter day for Toronto--certainly not onerous conditions for those inclined to cycle in the winter.

However, during my ride, which occured around 10 a.m., I counted only eight other cyclists on the road; in fact, I would have seen only six except that I had to make a small detour that added a bit of distance to my ride and two more cyclists to my tally. Granted, I was riding after rush hour and I surely would have seen more cyclists about if I had been riding an hour or two earlier. But even if I was out after rush hour, eight cyclists over a twelve-kilometre trip is a small number. I can't imagine how many cars I must have seen during that same trip. Thousands? The issue is not so much the numbers of bikes as it is the ratio of cars to bikes.

Salt

One aspect of winter cycling that alarms me is the amount of salt on the roads. On the one hand I'm glad that salt is preventing ice and snow build-up, but on the other hand I'm astounded at the colossal amount of salt that is used. In the winter my chain and gears are perpetually coated in salty grime; I have to apply oil and WD-40 before almost every trip. Come spring, I'll carefully wash my bike, but doubtless I'll need to replace the drive train before too long, largely due to the salt that gets thrown onto it each ride.

It is not just the salt on my bike that concerns me; it is the salt that gets into my body. Road salt, not table salt, mind you. When the roads are dry, traffic is constantly kicking up fine particles of salt, which everyone on the road inhales, cyclists all the more because we are usually breathing more heavily than people in cars. Recently a fire truck raced past me and left in its wake a billowing cloud of white salt. I find that there is so much salt on the roads that I can actually taste the salt when I ride. Come to think of it, if I can taste the salt I must be ingesting small amounts of it, too.

Bike Theft

I have lost only one bike because of theft. When I was a kid, my yellow bike with coaster brakes was stolen. I recovered the bike a day or two later, though, after my brother spotted a boy riding it in a nearby schoolyard. As an adult I have not had even one bike taken from me. Given how common bike theft is, I feel I have been lucky.



Here are ways you can lessen the likelihood of your bike being stolen:



Lock your bike in an area that has lots of pedestrian traffic. Thieves prefer to work away from public view; a bike left alone in an isolated area is far more likely to be taken than a bike left in a busy area. Keep in mind, though, that locking your bike in a busy area is no guarantee against theft. Many cyclists can tell of times they have had bikes stolen from racks on busy streets. The thieves in these instances must have been cutting through locks while pedestrians walked right past! These pedestrians were either oblivious to what was going on or were consciously ignoring the thief.



Use two locks on your bike. Having two locks makes it a hassle for thieves to take your bike, especially when they see other bikes nearby that have only a single lock. I don't use two locks every time I lock my bike - I'll use one lock if I am only going to be dashing into a store for a few moments - but if I am going to be away from my bike for more than a few minutes, I'll use two locks.



Lock your frame and both wheels! I can't count how many times I have seen a front wheel locked to a bike rack, the remainder of the bike gone. Remember, stolen bikes are often "chopped up" by thieves. A thief will happily and quickly remove the rest of the bike if only the front wheel is locked; the stolen bike (minus the front wheel) will then be disassembled, the constituent parts used to create new bikes.



Spend the money to get a good-quality lock. While any lock will stymie a thief looking for a quick getaway on an unlocked bike, only a better-quality lock will provide any deterrence against an experienced thief. I use a U-type lock and a chain lock. I slide the U-lock through my bike so that it secures the frame and rear tire; I use the chain lock for the front tire and (again) the frame. While even the best locks can be defeated, the more difficult you make it for thieves, the better off you will be.



Consider leaving an expensive bike at home if you're going to have to leave it out of sight for even a short period of time. The more expensive or new looking your bike is, the more likely it will be stolen. Some cyclists paint the frames of their bikes in an effort to hide the make of the bike, but I'm not sure how well this idea works. Whenever I see a bike with a repainted frame, I immediately suspect that the bike is expensive. And likely, most thieves have the same thought. In any case, they will usually be able to identify what make a bike is even if its logos are painted over. My bike is well-used and definitely looks that way. It has chipped paint and patches of rust; the seat is covered in duct tape. I feel like my bike is much less likely to be stolen than the expensive-looking bike locked next to it.



Take panniers, lights, and any other easily removed accessories with you once you have locked your bike. I would also consider taking your seat if it is attached with a quick release mechanism. And certainly take your helmet with you.



Good luck. Taking steps to protect your bike makes cycling a little less convenient. Unfortunately, theft of bikes is rampant. We have to take these precautions.

Keeping Safe in Winter

People are often reluctant to cycle in the winter. The cold and snow can cause some to relegate their bikes to the garage until spring. My previous post had some tips on how to keep warm while cycling in the winter; in this post, I will deal with some safety considerations.


The greatest winter-related danger to cyclists is ice. Look out, especially, for days in which the temperature dips from above to below freezing. On such days, the roads can be blanketed in ice, and often this ice is of the hard-to-see variety known as "dark ice." Nothing will bring you crashing to the ground faster than trying to turn or stop on ice. My recommendation is to not cycle at all in these conditions. If you must travel when the roads are icy, choose another type of transportation. It is far too dangerous and difficult to cycle on icy roads.


You probably won't be off your bike for long, though. Traffic and road salt will quickly remove the bulk of any newly created ice. Usually you can cycle again after a day or so has gone by following a cold snap. But always be vigilant. Dark ice can exist at any time, even long after it was created. You have to be on the lookout for ice every day in the winter.


Snow, while a lesser danger than ice, is still a concern. Obviously, when the snow gets to a certain depth, cycling can be near to impossible. I remember once making the mistake of trying to cycle a nature trail in the spring. The weather had been mild for weeks and the roads were completely clear of snow and ice. I assumed that the nature trail, which wended through valleys, would likewise be clear. When I got to the trail, however, it turned out to be still under quite a lot of snow and slush. What was to have been a regular ride for me turned into an exercise in endurance as I slogged my way along. As tiring as the ride was, though, I actually enjoyed the challenge of cycling through the snow and slush; staying upright and moving forward took a lot of concentration and was mentally engaging. However, riding through deep snow on a trail is one thing and riding through deep snow on roads is quite another; you just won't be quick or agile enough to safely share the roads with cars in those conditions. Again, some days you really should leave your bike in the garage.



It is reasonable, however, to cycle on hard-packed snow. During a snowy winter (which we haven't had for a while in Toronto...) you may sometimes find yourself having to negotiate stretches of hard-packed snow while cycling on side streets or when going through parks. While cycling on this kind of snow is certainly not as dangerous as cycling on ice, it is still easy enough to have a wipeout. Before you cycle on streets with hard-packed snow for the first time, try going to a park to practise. This is an important skill to develop, and with practice you will quickly develop your "snow legs." As long as you keep your bike moving at a steady pace and don't try to turn too quickly, you should be able to stay upright. The trick is to not go too fast.



A piece of equipment advice: opt for wide, knobbly tires in the winter. These are a big advantage when you are on snow or ice. Thin, racing-type tires are not a good idea in the winter.